Walk. Walk a lot. Look up. Marvel at the buildings.
Crespo, The Espadrille Store: It looked closed forever when we were there, but Google says its still open. Allegedly the oldest espadrille store in Madrid. **Update: It IS open. Push thru what looks like a window, which is really a door, and you will be inside the shop.
Desperate Literature: The right kind of book store. Only open on weekends. Will be co-hosting a poetry workshop with the art foundation Civitella Ranieri next year (2019).
Azotea del circulo: its a super groovy rooftop terrace in an art school. There’s a bar. Some reserved seating etc etc. Book your ‘hen party’ now. Worth 4 euros to take the elevator up. Not sure about the too chic, I just landed in Ibizia vibe.